At this time of the year I yearn my mother’s pickled hakusai, Chinese cabbage. It has lactic acid tinged, sweet and salty flavor. It is amusingly crunchy and it is d-e-l-i-c-i-o-u-s. So, these days I roam Greenmarket to find the best and largest head of organic Chinese cabbage. My mother pickled about two dozen heads of cabbage at the end of each year, all of which weighed about 5 pounds. Washing cabbage one after another in ice cold water turned her hands red like a...
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