Here is the story of Hiraga Gennai (1728–1780) and unagi no kabayaki, grilled eel flavored with a sweet-savory sauce.
Hiraga Gennai was an inventor, naturalist, technologist, physician, writer, and entrepreneur of the Edo period. He is best known for reproducing and improving the elekiter, an electrostatic generator originally developed in Europe.
One summer, Gennai learned that a friend who owned an eel restaurant was struggling with poor sales. He advised the owner to promote a special day for eating eel and to make it a custom. Thus, the Day of the Ox (Doyo no Ushi no Hi) became associated with eating unagi no kabayaki. Whether or not the story is entirely true, it remains one of Japan's most famous marketing legends.
Eel is rich in nutrients, including vitamins A, B, D, and E, as well as high-quality protein.
It was considered the perfect food to nourish and restore a body weakened by summer fatigue. Hiraga Gennai is still popularly associated with the custom of eating eel on the Day of the Ox (Doyo no Ushi no Hi), although the historical evidence supporting this story remains uncertain.
This year's Doyo no Ushi no Hi is July 26, but with the unusually intense heat this summer, I feel as if every day is Doyo no Ushi no Hi! Enjoy the unagi no kabayaki.
For me, I will have to wait until November to enjoy unagi no kabayaki, when I travel to Japan to lead a tour of Kyushu. That means I’ll be eating it outside the summer season, but that’s perfectly fine with me.
My favorite place is Kanda Kikukawa, and visiting there for eel is always one of the highlights of my trip.
Eel Burger Recipe
If you own The Japanese Kitchen: 250 Recipes in a Traditional Spirit, be sure to check out the Eel Burger recipe on page 398—it’s my original creation!
