Hiroko's Blog
Stories of Japanese food, culture, travel, and the traditions that inspire Hiroko's life and work.
You can also find her posting regularly on social media.
Blog
Natto and the Gut: The Power of Living Food
The health of the gut microbiome has long been a topic of growing interest. Today, we have access to more food choices than ever before, often more than we need to satisfy our hunger. While food is essential for survival, we also eat for comfort, convenience, pleasure, and habit. Many previous generations lived through periods of food scarcity, and hunger remains a reality for communities around the world. Yet even in places where food is plentiful, unhealthy eating habits are common. The challenge today is often not finding enough food, but making mindful choices about what we eat. By choosing nourishing whole foods, we can better support our gut health and overall well-being. To learn more about the connection between food and gut health, I recently spoke with Ann Yonetani, founder and owner of NYrture, a Brooklyn-based producer of fresh natto. A passionate advocate for microbiome health, Ann believes that a healthy gut microbiome is the foundation of overall wellness and that natto is one of the most effective probiotic foods for supporting it. According to Ann, our intestines contain trillions of microorganisms that form a complex ecosystem influencing digestion, immunity, metabolism, mood, and overall well-being. She believes that maintaining a healthy microbiome is key to a healthier lifestyle and that natto is among the most effective probiotic foods for supporting gut health. Natto is made by fermenting soybeans with Bacillus subtilis (B. subtilis), a beneficial bacterium known for its ability to survive digestion and reach the intestines. Unlike many fermented foods that rely on lactic acid fermentation, such as bread, miso, soy sauce, and sake, natto is unique because it undergoes alkaline fermentation. In contrast, shoyu (soy sauce) is made using koji and undergoes a more complex fermentation involving molds, yeasts, and lactic acid bacteria. This unique fermentation process gives natto its distinctive characteristics, including its sticky texture, pungent aroma, and rich nutritional profile. Natto's flavor can be an acquired taste, and I won't argue with that. Here is a good tip if you want to try natto or include it more regularly in your diet. I recently added rice vinegar alongside the traditional seasonings of shoyu (soy sauce) and Japanese yellow mustard. The vinegar surprisingly and dramatically balanced natto's otherwise one-dimensional flavor, and cuts some sliminess. Ladies and gentlemen, there's more. Natto not only supports gut health, but also contributes to bone and cardiovascular health and may help reduce inflammation. I encourage you to try Ann's natto, which I would describe as truly "live natto," compared to the frozen versions commonly sold in Styrofoam containers at many Japanese food stores. And here's some good news: Ann's New York natto is available for delivery across America! Here are a couple of recipes to get you started on your natto journey: Natto Miso Soup Traditional Natto Over Rice
Marketing Genius Hiraga Genna & Unagi Eel
Here is the story of Hiraga Gennai (1728–1780) and unagi no kabayaki, grilled eel flavored with a sweet-savory sauce.
Hiyashi Chuka Soba: Ramen’s Overlooked Summer Sister
Despite its name, hiyashi chuka soba is not a soba noodle dish but a chilled ramen dish. A Japanese noodle shop developed it in the 1930s to adapt China's hot ramen noodle soup to Japan's hot and humid summer climate.
The Summer World of Japanese Tsukemono 漬物
Discover the living tradition of Japanese summer pickling through the story of nukadoko, a fermented rice bran bed that transforms fresh vegetables into flavorful, nutrient-rich nukazuke.
June, The Month of the Ume
What exactly is Japanese plum, ume—Prunus mume? Although I often use the word “plum,” ume is botanically closer to the apricot.
The Lesson Hidden in Homemade Mirin
Last year, in the spirit of accessibility, I experimented making homemade mirin with vodka instead of shochu. It was a well-intentioned idea, but it taught me exactly why tradition matters.
Return of Shio-koji — A Beloved Commoner’s Seasoning
Shio-koji has made a remarkable comeback in modern Japanese kitchens. At its core, shio-koji is simple: rice koji, salt, and water. Yet behind that simplicity lies centuries of fermentation wisdom.
Golden Week: Oogata Renkyu
In 1948, the Japanese government revised the national holiday calendar and created a cluster of holidays in late April and early May. In 1985, May 4 became Citizens’ Holiday. For the first time, people could combine these holidays with weekends and create a full week off — soon known as Golden Week.
Nyugaku-shiki: The First Steps of a New Journey
For children beginning elementary school, it’s one of life’s biggest milestones—a moment when they step into a wider social world and begin learning the knowledge and skills that will guide them as they grow.
Mono no Aware: The Beauty of What Cannot Last
Mono no Aware is an emotional sensitivity. It's a way of appreciating, loving, and grieving the things that come and go—flowers, seasons, relationships, moments. It expresses the human recognition that we cannot control the universe’s constant change.
Planting the Future: A New Generation in Japanese Farming
Japan faces serious challenges in food security, yet a new generation of entrepreneurs is reshaping agriculture with fresh ideas and deep commitment. During my recent visit, I met young farmers working to reconnect communities with the soil—and with one another.
My Favorite Kanazawa Sweet (Chitose) and My Family Crests
I was born in Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture. This is a region once governed by the Maeda clan—the second-most powerful feudal lords after the Tokugawa during the Edo period (1600–1868). Under the prosperous Maeda domain, Kanazawa, flourished as a center of refined art and culture, earning its nickname ‘Little Kyoto.’ Among the city’s many elegant regional okashi (Japanese sweets), the 400-year-old Chitose from Morihachi Confectionery Company remains especially memorable. Chitose translates to a thousand years. This sweet consists of silky adzuki bean paste, lightly sweetened with rice syrup, wrapped in an exquisitely tender mochi sheet and dusted with fine powdered sugar. The sweets are traditionally paired in white and soft reddish-pink, colors that make them a favorite for celebratory occasions throughout the year. Though Chitose has no direct connection to plum blossoms, its delicate appearance always reminded me of a white-and-red-pink ume flower. I dream of savoring Chitose while admiring the gentle beauty of blooming ume. I have always loved my mother’s family crest, the kamon (家紋). Hers is the Umebachi (梅鉢) crest, a design of five larger circles arranged in a pentagon around a smaller central circle, resembling a plum blossom viewed from above. Japan has more than 20,000 family crests and over 100 variations of plum-blossom design alone. The history of the family crest dates back to the 8th through 12th centuries, when courtiers used designs drawn from nature on their ox carts and other belongings to distinguish themselves from others and show their power. Next, in the Kamakura period (1185-1333), a period of Japan’s civil war, warriors adorned their kabuto helmets with highly stylized versions of their family crests to distinguish themselves from others and express their mighty power. When the Edo period (1600-1868) began, commoners were allowed to use family crests; at the time, surnames were not yet permitted. In 1875, all citizens were allowed to carry a surname, and the family crest became a symbol of all families. Battle of SekigaharaCredit: Gifu History Museum The Battle of Sekigahara, fought on October 21, 1600, marked a decisive turning point in Japanese history. The clash split the nation into Eastern and Western factions, and its outcome opened the path for Tokugawa Ieyasu to unify the country, leading to nearly three centuries of tightly managed peace. managed peace. In this scene, you find hundreds of crests representing the participating armies, each one symbolizing a clan that took part in the battle. Daki-kashiwa: My father’s family crest Many samurai families connected to the Maeda clan used the Umebachi crest. My mother often reminded me—many times over—that her great-grandfather had served the Maeda clan. I own several formal kimonos, each bearing a family crest prominently displayed at the center of the back. The crest on my kimonos, however, is not my mother’s but my father’s: Daki-kashiwa (抱き柏). The oak leaf, kashiwa, has long been regarded as sacred. In ancient times, oak leaves were used as vessels for offerings to the gods. Because old oak leaves do not fall until new ones emerge, the kashiwa came to symbolize the continuity of the family line and, by extension, prosperity for future generations. For this reason, the oak-leaf motif has been favored by courtiers and warriors since antiquity. Unfortunately, I foresee my Shimbo family line, including other Shimbo relatives, coming to an end when my sister eventually passes. There are no sons to carry on the name and inherit it. I am blessed to continue to use Daki-kashiwa as my business logo on my cards and website until the end.