The Summer World of Japanese Tsukemono

Summer is the season of nukazuke, vegetables pickled in a fermented rice bran bed called nukadoko. During the hot, humid months, microbial activity becomes very active, allowing fresh summer vegetables to develop wonderful flavor, gentle acidity, and crisp texture in only a few hours.

My mother first learned about nukazuke after marrying my father and moving to Kanazawa. A neighbor introduced her to this unfamiliar pickle and generously shared a small scoop of her own well-cultivated nukadoko.

My mother carefully nurtured it for many years, and about twenty years ago, I made my own nukadoko by adding one cup of hers to a fresh rice bran bed. In a sense, I am still caring for the same microbial community that began generations ago.

Nukadoko is extraordinary.

Just one teaspoon contains about 10 billion microorganisms, primarily lactic acid bacteria and yeast. During fermentation, these microorganisms transform fresh vegetables into flavorful, nutrient-rich foods while creating the distinctive taste and aroma of traditional nukazuke.

In this month's blog, I share the story of my family's nukadoko, the science behind this remarkable fermentation, its long history in Japan, and how you can make and care for your own nukadoko.

Pictured above: This ukiyo-e woodblock print depicts the Tanabata festival.
Courtesy of the Harvard Art Museum.

Tanabata returns!

On the night of July 7, Japan celebrates Tanabata, the Star Festival. In old Japan, when nights were darker and the air clearer, people could look up and see a faint Milky Way stretching across the summer sky. Within that shimmering band lived two stars: Vega (Orihime) and Altair (Hikoboshi).

According to a beloved story that came to Japan from China, Orihime—the weaving princess and daughter of the King of Heaven—fell in love with Hikoboshi, a cowherd.

They were so devoted to each other that they neglected their work. Angered, the King placed the Milky Way between them, allowing them to meet only once a year, on July 7.

Here in New York City, the Milky Way is no longer visible through the bright urban sky, but the story remains vivid.

If you visit Japan in early July, you’ll see colorful strips of paper (tanzaku) hanging from bamboo poles across towns. Each carries a handwritten wish.

Tanabata is one of Japan’s five great annual festivals—a moment when the season, the sky, and our hopes come together.

July Recipes

This month, I invite you to explore one of Japan's most cherished summer traditions. Learn how to make nukadoko, the living rice bran bed used to ferment seasonal vegetables, followed by nukazuke, crisp and flavorful pickles that develop in just a few hours. I also share my favorite Chicken Namban-zuke, a refreshing dish of cold marinated fried chicken that is perfect for the warm summer months.

Now Open:
Immersion Kyushu 2027

November 9-20, 2027

Immersion Kyushu 2026 is now fully booked, and I am deeply grateful for the wonderful response. With this year's journey at capacity, I am pleased to announce that the dates for Immersion Kyushu 2027 are now available.

Reservations are open, including a special $350 early-bird discount (applicable now through March 31, 2027).

I would be delighted to welcome you on next year's journey.

Save $350 on your deposit using code EARLYBIRD27

Thank you for being part of this community, and please feel free to share my newsletter with anyone who may enjoy learning about Japanese food, culture, and traditions.

— Hiroko